Iban and his wife from Tribe Thyakan
The Atayal ( Tai-Ya in Mandarin) are Taiwan's second-largest Indigenous group, known for their traditions namely facial tattoos, distinct craftsmanship, and strong connection to the Central Mountain Range.
Beyond the touristic Neiwan Hakka Old Street along County Hsinchu Route 60, Thyakan tribe is based in the heart of the Atayal homeland—a gateway to Smangus and Cinsbu. Perched between 850 to 1,500 meters above sea level, these farms are famous for their high-altitude peaches and veggies.
This is where I met two dear friends 20 years ago: Iban from Thyakan and his wife, Mei-Jiao.
To diversify their farm, Iban has cultivated peaches and tea. He used to visit South Korea to study organic composting. Today, the consumption has exceeded his production capacity. In order to maintain his expanded orchards sustainably, he outsources the organic fertilizer out of the tribe as he insists on preserving ancestral lands for generations to come.
Christmas Eve of year 2009
When they are not farming, Iban and Mei-Jiao are deeply devoted to their church. My fondest memories of the tribe are from Christmas Eve: youth returning home from the city, gathered in the church square. The meal was warmly prepared by Mei-Jiao and her neighbors. Nights were filled with laughter, featuring everything from kids dancing to pop music to women performing traditional Atayal dances, while others felt free to warm themselves around open fires.
Now a proud grandfather to seven, Iban is a talented man. He plays guitar and basketball. He is passionate about photography. He built his family home from the scratch.
They even converted their roadside kitchen into the breakfast stand called "4 LU's" (named after their grandchildren's Atayal name in common). Even during peak harvest season, it opened at 5:00 AM, Mei-Jiao was busy flipping Taiwanese egg pancakes (Dan Bing in Mandarin) and making burgers. Iban gave her a hand if needed.
If you are exploring deeply into the mountains of Hsinchu, keep an eye out for the warmth, faith, and hard work that make this community so special.
Church square of Thyakan, 2026
Iban, Mei-Jiao and their youngest daughter, 2011